Anne Z. Cooke | Tribune News Service (TNS)
A fellow passenger on the back of the boat mentioned that the island in 'Cast Away' belongs to Tom Hanks.
Before getting on the early morning ferry from Viti Levu, we saw a college student in a red shirt preparing his backpack and pointing out Tom Hanks' island on the horizon.
He explained that the island, Modriki, is just 100 acres in size but has an amazing beach that attracts many tourists.
It's no surprise that Fiji's sandy beaches, shaded gardens, starry nights, and Melanesian hospitality are highly regarded by most South Pacific travelers. After visiting numerous beach resorts over the years, we went on a hiking trip to explore the mountains in 2019.
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According to Fiji farmers, using horses is more cost-effective than using trucks when visiting neighbors.
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Navala Village, the last traditionally thatched village in Fiji, is about an hour away from the Fiji Orchid Hotel and is open to visitors.
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At the Intercontinental Hotel & Resort in Fiji, families on vacation can make new friends while enjoying the pool near the Toba Bar & Grill.
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To take a last-minute weekend trip to Lomani Island, you can catch the one-hour ferry from Port Denerau.
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The Nausori Highland Road, which traverses ancient lava slopes, reveals the history of Fiji's formation.
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Adventurous travelers can participate in the International Hotel & Resort's evening Torch Lighting Ceremony with a Fijian warrior.
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One of the best beaches on Viti Levu is the public beach at Natadola Bay, located near the Intercontinental Hotel & Resort.
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Fiji's farming families grow vegetables throughout the year to sell at Nadi's Outdoor Market.
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With COVID cases declining and Fiji open for tourists, we flew back last fall to take another look at what makes the country special. Finding available hotels was a challenge, as Fiji is as popular with Australians as Hawaii is with Americans. However, we managed to secure rooms at five different places, with three of them exceeding our expectations.
We stayed at the Fiji Orchid, a grand manor near Viti Levu's northwest shore that was once owned by Hollywood actor Raymond Burr, known for starring in the detective series 'Perry Mason.' The hotel felt more like a home with a welcoming living room and framed memorabilia after a tiring day.
Deepika Dimlesh, the hotel manager, organized an authentic Fijian dinner, and Gordon Leewie, the co-owner, shared stories about early Fijian life. Despite being only 20 minutes away from Nadi (NAN-dee) International Airport, our bure (BOO-ray) in the lush tropical garden was incredibly peaceful.
During dinner, Dimlesh mentioned that they have had guests who stayed for weeks, including a guest who was writing a book. Most guests are international travelers or business people on a layover. They offer to pick them up from the airport and provide amenities like pool access, dinner, or a comfortable place to rest before driving them back.
Interested in Lautoka, the second largest town on the northwest coast of Viti Levu, we hired guide Kesho Goundar, who speaks Fijian, English, and Hindi, to show us around. We stopped at the town's big covered market, where he bought kava sticks, traditional gifts for the chief if we visited a village.
Next, we visited the Sabeto Mountains and the Garden of the Sleeping Giant. This popular park was created by Burr, a famous orchid collector. The highlight of the visit was the hundreds of orchids planted along the trail to the summit, a large rock resembling a human head. The adjacent forest, with its vines, shadowy branches, and unusual flowers, looked like a movie set.
The following day, we went upcountry to Navala Village, the country's last thatched village. Along the way, we passed barnyards, gardens, sugar cane fields, villages, some factories, and schools affiliated with different religions.
At first, Navala seemed empty until guide Mark Navaroka came out to collect our entrance fee and a kava stick for the chief.
Mark showed us inside the chief's official structure, explaining that it was built in 1954 when five Catholic villages joined together. He then led us to the school and church.
We drove along the Nausori Highland Road, encountering no other cars. The rocky, potholed track led us uphill for over an hour, with each hill steeper than the previous one. Eventually, we reached the top, which was a delight for photographers. As we rounded the corner, we passed two hunters on horseback with rifles and dogs.
We relocated to the Intercontinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa in Viti Levu's southwest corner. This 35-acre landscaped property on Natadola Bay was bustling with activity, resembling a country club on a holiday weekend. Families engaged in various activities while kids participated in fun and educational activities. The hotel's restaurants offered continental and Fijian dishes, and the Toba Bar & Grill provided quick service.
We were convinced to try the Jet Ski activity, zooming over the waves behind two watersports guides. However, the hotel's Coral Planting project led by marine scientists Lawaci Koroyawa and Luke Romatanababa was more impressive. We joined them in the water and learned how to plant healthy corals onto damaged reefs.
One of the most memorable experiences was the river cruise with Singatoka River Safari. The wide and long river meandered through a vast valley, passing rocky hills, farms, and meadows. People were seen enjoying the river, and it had a tranquil, timeless quality.
The 35-mile-long trip concluded at a village, where we had a tour, lunch at the community center, and a kava ceremony with the chief and town elders, taking part in a traditional kava drinking ritual.
We were curious about the number of villages. The hotel desk clerk told us there are hundreds of villages and each indigenous Fijian family belongs to a village that owns the land it's on. It's like a clan, she explained. Only indigenous Fijians can own land, so when you add up all the villages and their land, it's almost 90% of the country. The government creates Fiji's laws, but the villages govern themselves, which is why they're significant.
As our final week approached, we took the ferry to Lomani Island Resort – an adults-only beach resort – on Malolo Lailai island, which is just an hour's ferry ride to the mainland and Nadi International Airport. You can spend the night and still reach the airport on time.
But it wasn't just the beach that stood out. It was the lovely cottages, each with a private yard and plunge pool. The friendly waitstaff and innovative, chef-prepared meals served at candle-lit tables. There's also a special swimming pool and a water sports center.
“It's serene here,” said Shelley White, the general manager, during our cocktail hour meeting. “And quiet. But with Nadi nearby, we stay busy with weddings and anniversaries, and recently, even business retreats. We can order everything we need and have it delivered the next day,” she said.
“However, we really enjoy having visitors like you, people who are familiar with this place and enjoy it,” she added, with a mischievous smile. “Let me know the next time you travel. I might decide to come along.”
If you go
Fiji Airways operates flights from Los Angeles, with Fijian attendants and quality service, and offers dinner, breakfast and snacks. Departures leave just before midnight and arrive at 5:30 a.m. Fiji Airways also offers flights from San Francisco and Honolulu.
Air New Zealand offers flights from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Honolulu
American Airlines offers flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco
United Airlines offers flights from Houston
Delta Airlines offers flights from Los Angeles and Seattle
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